bogner jacken Yet if Bolen’s voice understandably faltered as he spoke, that was all that did. This pre-fall was a wonderful statement about all of the qualities that make the house so great: beauty, exquisite craftsmanship, and clothes reflecting a zest for life lived well and to the fullest. And we can add warmth and humor to that list too. Reminisicing about previous presentations, when Oscar would sit with those watching, Bolen discussed how the late designer would field questions about the clothes afterward. “Actually, he never wanted to talk about the clothes,” Bolen recalled. “Oscar would rather ask about their love lives.”Unsurprisingly, given that the collection evolved into a quiet tribute to the house’s founder, evening dresses—of the type that exist in the most elaborate and romantic fantasies, and whose creation underscored the brilliance of the Oscar de la Renta ateliers—were well to the fore. Consider the likes of a black tulle gown graphically emblazoned with pink threadwork floral embroidery, a strapless confection in navy tulle shimmering with silver bullion flowers, or the black macramé cocktail dress traced with filigree and sequin embroideries. But there were things for day here too that crackled with urban energy, namely the likes of a double-face long gilet with a deep U scoop at the back, partnered with wide cropped pants, or a fluted jacket and skirt cut on the bias, all worn with pointed metallic crepe sole loafers. In other words, a fond remembrance of the past, and a confident, heads-up look into the future: just the way Oscar would have wanted it.